{"id":4155,"date":"2014-03-18T09:17:15","date_gmt":"2014-03-18T02:17:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/science-technology.vn\/?p=4155"},"modified":"2014-03-18T09:17:15","modified_gmt":"2014-03-18T02:17:15","slug":"xu-huong-cong-nghiep-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/?p=4155","title":{"rendered":"Xu h\u01b0\u1edbng c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p"},"content":{"rendered":"

Trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960 v\u00e0 1970 Carolina \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi l\u00e0 th\u1ee7 ph\u1ee7 d\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a M\u0129 v\u1edbi h\u00e0ng ngh\u00ecn nh\u00e0 ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o v\u00e0 h\u00e0ng tr\u0103m ngh\u00ecn c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n nh\u01b0ng v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1980 c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p d\u1ec7t b\u1ecf n\u01b0\u1edbc M\u0129 v\u00e0 chuy\u1ec3n sang Mexico, Trung Qu\u1ed1c, Bangladesh v\u00e0 Thailand n\u01a1i m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00e2u qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o l\u1ea5y v\u00e0i \u0111\u00f4 la m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0y. C\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng Gaffney, National Textiles, v\u00e0 Cherokee v.v. nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u01a1 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i v\u00e0 d\u1ec7t bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t do t\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u ho\u00e1 th\u1ebf r\u1ed3i \u0111\u1ed9t nhi\u00ean, m\u1ecdi x\u01b0\u1edfng d\u1ec7t v\u00e0 ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o \u1edf Carolinas m\u1ea5t \u0111i.<\/span><\/p>\n

V\u00e0i n\u0103m tr\u01b0\u1edbc, Parkdale Mills, x\u01b0\u1edfng d\u1ec7t l\u1edbn nh\u1ea5t m\u1edf l\u1ea1i v\u00e0 r\u1ed3i h\u00e0ng tr\u0103m vi\u1ec7c ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o l\u1edbn v\u00e0 nh\u1ecf b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u t\u00e1i xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t ch\u1ec9 d\u1eabn v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 h\u1ed3i sinh c\u1ee7a ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o M\u0129 v\u00e0 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng “kho\u00e1n trong.” Ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n, m\u1edbi n\u0103m ngo\u00e1i, ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 l\u00e0m qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o \u0111\u1ec1u mua qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o t\u1eeb c\u00e1c c\u01a1 x\u01b0\u1edfng \u1edf \u1ea4n \u0110\u1ed9, Thailand v\u00e0 Vi\u1ec7t Nam nh\u01b0ng b\u00e2y gi\u1edd, mua ch\u00fang t\u1eeb M\u0129 l\u00e0 r\u1ebb h\u01a1n. M\u1eb7c d\u1ea7u b\u00e2y gi\u1edd c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u c\u00f4ng ti ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed3 d\u1ec7t \u1edf Carolina nh\u01b0ng nh\u1eefng c\u00f4ng ti n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng thu\u00ea nhi\u1ec1u c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n b\u1edfi v\u00ec c\u01a1 x\u01b0\u1edfng c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u1eadn h\u00e0nh ch\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu b\u1eb1ng robots. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng ti gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch: \u201cL\u00e0m qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o l\u00e0 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n v\u00e0 d\u1ec5 t\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed9ng ho\u00e1. Robot c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang t\u00f4i l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c 24 gi\u1edd m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0y v\u00e0 m\u1ecdi tu\u1ea7n, ch\u00fang c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0m \u0111\u1ee7 m\u1ecdi l\u1ea1i qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o tu\u1ef3 theo ch\u01b0\u01a1ng tr\u00ecnh m\u00e1y t\u00ednh v\u00e0 ch\u00fang t\u00f4i c\u00f3 tr\u00ean s\u00e1u ngh\u00ecn ch\u01b0\u01a1ng tr\u00ecnh cho c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o, t\u1eeb \u00e1o thun \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n cho t\u1edbi Tuxedo ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p. B\u1eb1ng vi\u1ec7c s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t \u1edf M\u0129 ch\u00fang t\u00f4i c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u \u01b0u th\u1ebf. Ch\u00fang t\u00f4i kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i tr\u1ea3 ti\u1ec1n cho chi ph\u00ed v\u1eadn t\u1ea3i t\u1eeb vi\u1ec7c g\u1eedi h\u00e0ng h\u1ea3i ngo\u1ea1i. Khi th\u1eddi trang thay \u0111\u1ed5i, ch\u00fang t\u00f4i c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 nhanh ch\u00f3ng thay \u0111\u1ed5i b\u1eb1ng vi\u1ec7c thay th\u1ebf ch\u01b0\u01a1ng tr\u00ecnh thay v\u00ec hu\u1ea5n luy\u1ec7n l\u1ea1i c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n. Ch\u00fang t\u00f4i kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i lo l\u1eafng v\u1ec1 c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n b\u00e3i c\u00f4ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 bi\u1ebfn c\u1ed1 x\u1ea3y ra \u1edf Trung Qu\u1ed1c v\u00e0 \u1ea4n \u0110\u1ed9 v\u00e0i n\u0103m tr\u01b0\u1edbc. Robots kh\u00f4ng b\u00e3i c\u00f4ng hay \u0111\u00f2i t\u0103ng l\u01b0\u01a1ng, chi ph\u00ed t\u1ed5ng th\u1ec3 cho t\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed9ng ho\u00e1 l\u00e0 cao trong v\u00e0i n\u0103m \u0111\u1ea7u do \u0111\u1ea7u t\u01b0 v\u00e0o robots v\u00e0 t\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed9ng ho\u00e1 nh\u01b0ng b\u00e2y gi\u1edd n\u00f3 th\u1ea5p h\u01a1n \u1edf h\u1ea3i ngo\u1ea1i. C\u00e1c c\u01a1 x\u01b0\u1edfng c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang t\u00f4i \u0111\u00e3 thay \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1ecdi th\u1ee9 sang t\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed9ng ho\u00e1 v\u00e0 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i t\u1edbi m\u1ee9c ch\u00fang t\u00f4i kh\u00f4ng lo ngh\u0129 v\u1ec1 an to\u00e0n c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c hay nguy c\u01a1 ch\u00e1y nh\u01b0 \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00e3 x\u1ea3y ra \u1edf Bangladesh, Thailand. T\u1ea5t nhi\u00ean, ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7 M\u0129 h\u1ed7 tr\u1ee3 cho ch\u00fang t\u00f4i v\u00ec m\u1ecdi th\u1ee9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y. T\u1eeb \u0111\u1ea7u n\u0103m nay, ch\u00fang t\u00f4i \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t kh\u1ea9u qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o \u0111i kh\u1eafp th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi v\u00ec ch\u00fang t\u00f4i c\u00f3 v\u1eadt t\u01b0 t\u1ed1t nh\u1ea5t v\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng cao.\u201d<\/p>\n

N\u0103m 2012, xu\u1ea5t kh\u1ea9u c\u1ee7a ng\u00e0nh d\u1ec7t M\u0129 l\u00e0 $22.7 t\u1ec9 v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c t\u0103ng tr\u01b0\u1edfng qu\u00e3ng 30% m\u1ed7i n\u0103m. Ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p d\u1ec7t v\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o \u0111ang ph\u00e1t \u0111\u1ea1t l\u00e0 ch\u1ec9 d\u1eabn v\u1ec1 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng lan r\u1ed9ng h\u01a1n v\u1ec1 ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o t\u1ea1i M\u0129. M\u1ed9t cu\u1ed9c \u0111i\u1ec1u tra g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y c\u1ee7a ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7 th\u1ea5y r\u1eb1ng m\u1ed9t n\u1eeda c\u00f4ng ti M\u0129 v\u1edbi ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o \u1edf h\u1ea3i ngo\u1ea1i n\u00f3i h\u1ecd \u0111ang c\u00e2n nh\u1eafc \u0111em s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i do nh\u1eefng kh\u00f3 kh\u0103n \u1edf h\u1ea3i ngo\u1ea1i nh\u01b0 t\u0103ng l\u01b0\u01a1ng, ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng th\u1ea5p v\u00e0 chi ph\u00ed v\u1eadn t\u1ea3i. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi qu\u1ea3n l\u00ed n\u00f3i: \u201cHai m\u01b0\u01a1i n\u0103m tr\u01b0\u1edbc, chi ph\u00ed th\u1ea5p l\u00e0 quan tr\u1ecdng nh\u01b0ng ng\u00e0y nay v\u1edbi t\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed9ng ho\u00e1, ch\u00fang t\u00f4i c\u00f3 chi ph\u00ed t\u1ed1t h\u01a1n, ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng t\u1ed1t h\u01a1n, v\u00e0 gi\u00e1 t\u1ed1t h\u01a1n b\u1edfi vi\u1ec7c ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o t\u1ea1i M\u0129. B\u00e2y gi\u1edd ch\u00fang t\u00f4i c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 xu\u1ea5t kh\u1ea9u qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o cho c\u00e1c ch\u1ed7 kh\u00e1c thay v\u00ec nh\u1eadp kh\u1ea9u t\u1eeb h\u1ecd.\u201d<\/p>\n

V\u1edbi robots v\u00e0 t\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed9ng ho\u00e1, nh\u1eefng c\u01a1 x\u01b0\u1edfng n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng thu\u00ea c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n lao \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1edbi qui m\u00f4 nh\u01b0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc, v\u00ec m\u00e1y m\u00f3c \u0111\u00e3 thay th\u1ebf con ng\u01b0\u1eddi g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 \u1edf m\u1ecdi \u0111i\u1ec3m trong qui tr\u00ecnh s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t. Tuy nhi\u00ean h\u1ecd \u0111ang thu\u00ea c\u00e1c k\u0129 s\u01b0 ph\u1ea7n m\u1ec1m, v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u1eadp tr\u00ecnh m\u00e1u t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ec3 ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t nh\u1eefng robot v\u00e0 m\u00e1y m\u00f3c n\u00e0y. Ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n vi\u1ec7c ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a Parkdale t\u1ea1o ra 2.5 tri\u1ec7u pound s\u1ee3i m\u1ed9t tu\u1ea7n v\u1edbi qu\u00e3ng 140 c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n. N\u0103m 1980, m\u1ee9c s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t \u0111\u00f3 ch\u1eafc \u0111\u00e3 y\u00eau c\u1ea7u h\u01a1n 2,000 ng\u01b0\u1eddi. Vi\u1ec7c l\u00e0m qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o c\u1ee7a Apache s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t ra n\u0103m ngh\u00ecn \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi m\u1ed9t tu\u1ea7n ch\u1ec9 v\u1edbi 25 c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n, hai m\u01b0\u01a1i n\u0103m tr\u01b0\u1edbc h\u1ecd c\u1ea7n tr\u00ean 800 ng\u01b0\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

\u0110i\u1ec1u g\u00ec x\u1ea3y ra cho d\u1ec7t v\u00e0 ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o \u1edf \u1ea4n \u0110\u1ed9, Thailand v\u00e0 Bangladesh? Nhi\u1ec1u c\u00f4ng ti \u0111\u00f3ng c\u1eeda khi kinh doanh ra \u0111i v\u1edbi h\u00e0ng tr\u0103m ngh\u00ecn c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n b\u1ecb sa th\u1ea3i. N\u1ec1n kinh t\u1ebf c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u co l\u1ea1i nhanh nh\u01b0 c\u00e1c c\u01a1 x\u01b0\u1edfng c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd b\u1ecb \u0111\u00f3ng l\u1ea1i. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ee7 c\u01a1 x\u01b0\u1edfng ph\u00e0n n\u00e0n: \u201cTo\u00e0n c\u1ea7u ho\u00e1 l\u00e0 tai ho\u1ea1; kinh doanh c\u1ee7a t\u00f4i \u0111ang l\u00e0m t\u1ed1t cho n\u00ean t\u00f4i vay ti\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ec3 m\u1edf r\u1ed9ng c\u00f4ng ti nh\u01b0ng b\u00e2y gi\u1edd m\u1ecdi th\u1ee9 m\u1ea5t r\u1ed3i v\u00e0 t\u00f4i c\u00f3 m\u00f3n n\u1ee3 kh\u1ed5ng l\u1ed3 v\u1edbi ng\u00e2n h\u00e0ng m\u00e0 t\u00f4i kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 tr\u1ea3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 t\u00ecnh hu\u1ed1ng r\u1ea5t t\u1ec7 m\u00e0 t\u00f4i \u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e0 t\u00f4i \u0111\u00e3 bi\u1ebft.\u201d M\u1ed9t quan ch\u1ee9c ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7 Bangladesh n\u00f3i: \u201cCh\u00fang t\u00f4i ch\u01b0a bao gi\u1edd nghi ng\u1edd n\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 x\u1ea3y ra nhanh th\u1ebf, \u0111\u1ed9t nhi\u00ean nhi\u1ec1u c\u00f4ng ti d\u1eebng kho\u00e1n ngo\u00e0i v\u00e0 b\u1ecf ch\u00fang t\u00f4i v\u1edbi th\u1ebf kh\u00f3 x\u1eed m\u00e0 ch\u00fang t\u00f4i kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 gi\u1ea3i quy\u1ebft \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c. Kh\u00f4ng ai gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch cho ch\u00fang t\u00f4i v\u1ec1 “Kho\u00e1n trong” v\u00e0 t\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed9ng ho\u00e1 v\u00ec ch\u00fang t\u00f4i c\u1ee9 t\u01b0\u1edfng r\u1eb1ng kinh doanh n\u00e0y s\u1ebd k\u00e9o d\u00e0i nhi\u1ec1u n\u0103m. Ch\u00fang t\u00f4i \u0111\u00e1ng ph\u1ea3i bi\u1ebft r\u00f5 h\u01a1n.\u201d<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

—English version—<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Industry Trend<\/p>\n

In 1960s and 1970s Carolina was considered the textile capital of the U.S. with thousands of clothing manufactures and hundred thousands of workers but in 1980s the textile industry left the U.S and moved to Mexico, China, Bangladesh and Thailand wherever people would sew clothes for a few dollars a day. The well-known brands of Gaffney, National Textiles, and Cherokee etc. main productive engines of the Carolinas fabric and textiles trade disappeared due to the impact of globalization then suddenly, all textile mills and clothing manufacturing in the Carolinas are gone.<\/p>\n

Few years ago, Parkdale Mills, the country\u2019s largest textile mill reopened and then hundreds of large and small manufacturing begin to reappear as indication of the resurgence of U.S manufacturing and the \u201cInsourcing\u201d trend. For example, just last year, most clothing makers were buying clothes from factories in India, Thailand and Vietnam but now, it is cheaper to buy them from the U.S. Although there are now many clothing and textiles manufacturing companies in Carolina but these companies do not hire many workers because their factories are operated mostly by robots. A company owner explained: \u201cClothing is simple and easy to automate. Our robots work 24 hours a day and all week, they can made all kind of clothes depending on the computer programs and we have over six thousand programs for different types of clothes, from simple T-shirt to complex Tuxedo. By made in the U.S we have several advantages. We do not have to pay for transportation costs from shipping overseas. When fashion changes, we can change quickly by replacing the program instead of retraining workers. We do not have to worry about workers go on strike like some events happened in China and India few years ago. Robots do not go on strike or ask for raising wages, the overall costs of automation is high is the first few years due to investments in robots and automation but now it is lower than overseas. Our factories have changed everything to automation and so modern so we do not worry about work safety or fire hazard as what happened in Bangladesh, Thailand. Of course, the U.S government supports us as everything is made here. Beginning this year, we export our clothes all over the world because we have the best materials and high quality.\u201d<\/p>\n

In 2012, U.S. textile exports were $22.7 billion and continue to grow about 30% per year. The textile and clothing industry is thriving as an indicative of a broader trend about manufacturing in the US. A recent government survey found that more than half of American companies with manufacturing overseas said they were considering bring back production due to difficulties overseas such as increasing wages, low quality and transportation costs. A manager said: \u201cTwenty years ago, lower cost was important but today with automation, we have better cost, better quality, and better price by made in the U.S. Now we can export our clothes to other places instead of import from them.\u201d<\/p>\n

With robots and automation, these factories do not hire labor workers as many as the scale there was before, because machines have replaced humans at almost every point in the production process. However they are hiring software engineers, and computer programmers to control these robots and machines. For example Parkdale manufacturing produces 2.5 million pounds of yarn a week with about 140 workers. In 1980, that production level would have required more than 2,000 people. Apache clothing produces five thousand shirts a week with only 25 workers, twenty years ago they need over 800 people.<\/p>\n

What happened to textiles and clothing manufacturing in India, Thailand and Bangladesh? Many are closing when business are gone away with hundred thousand workers getting laid-off. Their economies are beginning to shrink as fast as their factories are shutting down. A factory owner complained: \u201cGlobalization is a curse; my business was doing well so I borrow money to expand the company but now everything is gone and I had a huge loan with bank that I cannot pay back. It is a very bad situation that I wish I knew.\u201d A Bangladesh government officer said: \u201cWe never suspect it can happen that fast, suddenly many companies stop outsource and left us with a dilemma that we cannot solve. No one explain to us about \u201cInsourcing\u201d and automation as we all believe that this business will last for many years. We should have known better.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960 v\u00e0 1970 Carolina \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi l\u00e0 th\u1ee7 ph\u1ee7 d\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a M\u0129 v\u1edbi h\u00e0ng ngh\u00ecn nh\u00e0 ch\u1ebf t\u1ea1o qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o v\u00e0 h\u00e0ng … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4155","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-xu-huong-toan-cau"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4155","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4155"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4155\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4157,"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4155\/revisions\/4157"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4155"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4155"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/science-technology.vn\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4155"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}